Well…the official name is Mitchell’s Bar & Grill (259 Flatbush Avenue, between Sixth Avenue and St. Mark’s Avenue; 718-484-4114). And they do have a bar, and even a grill. But if you expect to find a couple of bleary-eyed, unshaven men hanging on bar stools…well, perhaps you are taking the name a little too literally.
And you are going to get even more confused, for when you walk through the front door what you encounter is neither bar nor restaurant, but a full take-out deli counter.
The reality is something quite different. Mitchell’s is a true gem…one of the prettiest, most tastefully appointed dining rooms in the area; an expansive backyard complete with grotto waterfall; and, in the coming weeks, the venue for top notch live jazz. It is also family-friendly, singles welcome, very appropriate for impressing and celebrating special occasions: well, you get the idea, just right for whatever. From a distinctive and truly exceptional menu to a hookah bar two flights below, to understated and elegant décor, Mitchell’s is as unique as its owners.
For some three decades Chacuterie, a restaurant across the wide street, built up a following of food fans that few could hope to match. This gourmet sandwich shop, deli and take-home foods place was legend in the area and way beyond, as their party and office orders sent their delivery vans across the borough and the city. But ultimately, the lease was up and the landlord decided on a different direction, so the place shuttered and moved across the street.
Its founders and still owners, Mike and Mitchell Issa two sabras from Haifa, Israel, decided to keep their ever expanding base of loyal deli fans, but decided they also wanted something more. So when they took the space that was once occupied by a bicycle shop, and gutted it completely, they created their multi-purpose dining and entertaining space.
The deli is as popular as ever, though there is no hint of its existence from the outside. But to discover the rest of the place, you have to know it is there…or be just a tad adventurous. You pass the deli counter and the grill and pass through two red curtains to emerge in the bi-level dining room.
Step inside and the first cozy level offers comfy hi-backed banquettes with pillows and rolled cushions to luxuriate on. Go up a half flight of stairs to the next level…which is ringed with fine metal and wood railings and trim to section off the space, and 12-foot windows look out onto the backyard patio. The tables are set with fine eggshell-colored lines, and accented with elegant water goblets and candles, and weathered brick, as old as the building itself, remains naturally unobstructed, and is adorned with a couple of dozen of miniature candle lit lanterns. Aesthetically-pleasing artwork offers a colorful view of the souks and traders of the brothers’ Sephardic ancestry, and gently accents the restaurant’s gentle amber and soft red hues.
But we are here to dine, after all…and as pretty and engaging as the place is, the food takes all attention.
Starters such as the Maryland Crab Cake, served on a pure white platter painted with a sundried tomato sauce contrasting with the golden saffron aioli; the cake itself, atop fresh avocado, bursting with fresh crabmeat and enhancing spices and herbs. From cucumbers with mint yogurt to homemade hummus to the Cajun Sea Scallops, blackened and presented with a white bean salad and orange-fennel coulis, you quickly realize your journey has brought you to a treasure trove of culinary excellence.
And despite the fine accoutrements, there is not a hint of stuffiness in the staff, the food or the ambiance. They are just as pleased to offer a large platter of meaty chicken wings, lathered in a thick BBQ sauce (or dine Buffalo or Mediterranean style) along side the Long Island Mussels, which are steamed in a white wine and herb broth. Portobello mushrooms are topped with oven-roasted tomatoes with a goat cheese dressing.
And they are capable and confident enough to offer unique and wonderfully satisfying pizza diversions on the same bill of fare as Pan Seared Sea Bass with caramelized onions and a dazzling, Mediterranean style New York strip steak, grilled and laden with roasted peppers, onions, garlic and herbs and the lightest of red sauces.
But let’s get back to those pizzas for a moment: fig and prosciutto, smoked Gouda and parmigiana with baby arugula…try ordering that one at the local pizza shop. The Buffalo Chicken is supremely satisfying: like taking the white meat off three dozen wings and piling it high on a delicious pizza crust with a red sauce. There’s a more traditional Margarita as well as the Roasted Veggie version, a cornucopia of caramelized onions, sweet roasted peppers, mushrooms, grilled eggplant and spinach, all topped with feta cheese.
Yes, Mitchell’s even has a burger…a half pound Kobe burger, that is, which is served with a side of homemade fries with skin intact.
Ah, this treasure in Park Slope is confident enough to appeal to beef lovers on many levels: There is a 22 ounce bone in ribeye with a bleu cheese highlight (dubbed a cowboy steak for some reason, though I did not realize bleu cheese was so popular on the prairie) and a 24 ounce Porterhouse, an aged prime hunk of meat finished with garlic and herb-infused olive oil.
You really can’t pigeon-hole the menu of Mitchell’s, as beef or chicken shwarma in a family marinade share star status with the Herb Crusted Salmon; the Chicken Breast stuffed with baby spinach and a mélange of cheeses vies for your attention with the Grilled Mako Steak, the flaky and succulent fish served on a plate painted with thickened and sweet Balsamic vinegar and spearmint leaves, with a side of outstanding herbal couscous.
Trout is served blackened; there are skewered kebobs of chicken, beef or lamb; a vegetarian platter of Middle Eastern spreads and salads. Even the side orders are worth mentioning, and at only $3 a plate, very well worth ordering: finely grilled veggies, sweet potato fries and Mediterranean potato skins.
Of course, each night brings a freshly printed (on 100 percent cotton and watermarked) menus. This evening added an artichoke fritter appetizer, and main dishes such as Herb Crusted Tilapia served with sautéed zucchini, roasted red bliss potatoes and a mango BBQ sauce; and Chicken Breast Dijonnaise, with broccoli and mashed potatoes.
Desserts conclude: fried ice cream with a raspberry coulis; a Banana Split (this is not your Jahn’s banana split) and a very popular seven layer cake.
Cafés, lattes, cappuccinos and more are available, and the bar is as well stocked as you will find anywhere.
Note that there is a price fixed brunch menu on Saturday and Sunday. The $9.50 tab includes a starter, Mimosa and a choice from the long menu of create your own omelettes and pancakes, egg dishes and salads.
