There’s only one disadvantage to eating
in a Korean restaurant: afterwards, everyone can tell where you’ve
dined. While grilling your own meat at the table is a wonderful
way to enjoy the cuisine, those fumes can stick with you long
after the check’s been paid. Shul Kim (pictured on right), the
owner of Williamsburg’s Dokebi (means "devil" or "ghost"
in Korean), has found a way for you to remain sweet-smelling.
At each table, he’s installed grills specially designed to suck
the smoke out of the air.
"They really work," says Shul.
Shul and his chefs "Mr. Park" and "Mrs. Kim"
(both have worked in Manhattan’s 36 Bar & BBQ and Seoul Garden)
developed the menu. Entrees focus on high-quality provisions
such as Angus beef, not inferior ingredients with lots of sides,
the way some other Korean restaurants serve their meals, says
Shul.
"People have criticized me for not including side dishes
in the price of the entrees," he says, "but I’d rather
not scrimp on the mains just to load diners up on extras. And
my prices are about 20 percent cheaper because of it." Kimchi
(spicy pickled cabbage) and other "ban chan" (side
dishes) are available a la carte.
In the modern, brick-walled, 100-seat dining room, which opened
in November, patrons can enjoy the grilled selection, or other
Asian specialties such as "shabu-shabu" (raw meat and
vegetables cooked at the table in hot broth) and "bibim
bob" (rice mixed with vegetables and beef).
To end the meal, there are 12 gelatos, including red bean, ginger,
fig and cinnamon, and three fruit sorbets.
Dokebi (199 Grand St. between Bedford and Driggs avenues in Williamsburg)
accepts American Express, MasterCard and Visa. Entrees: $8-$20.
The restaurant serves lunch and dinner daily. For reservations,
call (718) 782-1424.
-Tina Barry
