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’LITTLE’ WONDER

By Tina Barry
The Brooklyn Paper
The Brooklyn Papers / Tom Callan

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After 9-11, Chris Cheung closed his Chinese eatery in the Bowery, Tiger Blossom, and went to work for a few formidable establishments: Jean Georges, Nobu and Ruby Foo’s, in Manhattan, and in Brooklyn, Park Slope’s Long Tan and Brooklyn Heights’ Thai Grille.

In July, Cheung (pictured) renovated a former Japanese restaurant and turned it into a sleek dining room with outdoor seating. He named the diminutive space Little Bistro.

Cheung mans the stove in the small open kitchen, while partner Sam Wong, manages the restaurant. Third partner Steven Ng designed the 45-seat modern interior. Wong said the space was used as a barbershop in th 1850s, and a photo of the old business hangs in the restaurant.

He describes his cuisine as "New American with a twist." That means his potpie is filled with lobster meat, and the baby back ribs have a sweet-and-sour Asian marinade and come with a side of macaroni-and-cheese made with a blend of Roquefort and cheddar. There’s an "Asian take" he says, on creme brulee - it’s topped and flavored with lichee nuts, and the house sundae is called "Sorbet Saturday," made with scoops of green apple, mango and raspberry from Ciao Bella gelato company.

It’s true: Good things come in small bistros.

Little Bistro (158 Court St. at Pacific Street in Boerum Hill) accepts American Express, MasterCard and Visa. Entrees: $10-$17. The restaurant serves dinner daily. Lunch will be offered after Labor Day. For reservations call (718) 797-5655.

©2005 Community Newspaper Group

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