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A taco cart opens in Downtown — no, this is big • Brooklyn Paper

A taco cart opens in Downtown — no, this is big

Mas macho: Owen Wright has opened the Loading Dock, a Baja California-style taco joint inside an art gallery on dour Tillary Street in Downtown.
The Brooklyn Paper / Julie Rosenberg

It has to be the least-likely best restaurant in the borough.

Carved out of the loading dock of a live-work loft building on ugly Tillary Street is the appropriately named Loading Dock, a part gallery, part taco stand.

The restaurant was opened in December by Owen Wright, who manages the loft building, after he convinced the landlord to allow him to put a food cart in the loading dock. Wright then built two dining areas around the cart — one that looks like a beach-side taco stand, the other that looks like a gallery in Chelsea.

Chef Forrest Cole’s fried fish taco — hot, cool and crispy — brings back memories of hot summer days south of the border. And his burritos, also crafted in the three-foot-by-five-foot food truck space, are better than most of the versions churned out in real restaurants (his pork carnitas is actually crispy, like it should be).

The menu is limited — hey, there’s only so much you can do in a food truck — and so are the hours (it is a working loading dock, after all), but Wright’s hidden roadside stand is going to be a huge hit for all the wandering office workers of Downtown — including Wright’s new best friends at The Brooklyn Paper.

The Loading Dock [170 Tillary St. between Flatbush Avenue and Gold Street, (646) 355-7518]. Open Tuesday-Sunday, 11 am-3 pm; plus Wednesday-Saturday, 6-10 pm. Cash only.

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