On a hot, sunny afternoon, Coney Island is packed with strollers, couples in locked hands and generations of families. But above the crash of waves and the roar of the Cyclone, a quieter story unfolds behind the counters of the boardwalk’s family-run shops and restaurants.
Strolling along the historic Riegelmann Boardwalk, one restaurant stands out in all its bright blue glory. With bold signage, a classic menu of clams and hot dogs, and a bustling bar filled with patrons sipping beer, Paul’s Daughter looks like a vintage postcard come to life.
“I started in 2016 as a sign painter, helped them design the interior of the store, and then became the bartender and manager,” said Stephen Gaffney. “I didn’t want some of the iconic signage to be further damaged by outside elements.”
For Gaffney, working at Paul’s Daughter is a way to help preserve the spirit of Coney Island. He points to the long-time workers at other businesses along the boardwalk as the reason he keeps coming back, especially during rough patches.
“I come back for the people, the rides, and the weather, although the weather is also our enemy as a vendor. It can be extremely beautiful down here to be among wind and rain, but it’s not good for business,” he told Brooklyn Paper. “You can’t predict the weather here but we have to open no matter what. We got to show up and be ready.”
Gaffney fondly remembers Paul Georgoulakos, who opened the store in 1962. After Astroland was sold in 2008, Georgoulakos’ daughter renamed the stand in her father’s honor to keep the legacy alive.
“Paul used to be here all the time, for the 60 years that he had this business, to help others out,” said Gaffney. “He would store food for the winter, keep his freezer open, and be down here whenever it was nice out. We’re all here because of Paul.”
On the other end of the wooden boardwalk, Brooklyn Beach Shop occupies a large space as a trendy retail store offering Coney Island-themed apparel, souvenirs and beach essentials. The family behind the store opened its first location all the way back in 1966 as a discount shop on the corner of Mermaid and Stillwell Avenue.
“My parents had their business when the MTA started renovating the Stillwell station, and the construction and street closures ended up putting them out of business,” said Maya Miller, who co-owns Brooklyn Beach Shop with her father. “Fortunately, in 2003, my dad found a new spot, which became Coney Island Beach Shop–the big store next to Nathan’s on Stillwell — and he’s been there ever since.”
When the pandemic hit, Miller realized that the neighboring vendors could lend a hand, bringing them even closer. Every business on the boardwalk had something to offer that the others didn’t, and they quickly developed a mutual support system. Miller recalls just a few days ago, a pizza pie waiting for her from a neighboring shop, which she shared with Ruby’s Bar & Grill. In return, Ruby’s brought over cold beverages.
“If the weather’s not nice and we see someone who looks cold, we’ll throw over some sweatshirts from our store,” said Miller. “Behind the scenes, there’s this close-knit relationship amongst all of us that not many people see, but it is very special to us.”
Ruby’s Bar and Grill, with its vibrant red exterior, is a beloved spot known for its heartwarming history, especially to those who knew or remember Ruby Jacobs. Raised on the beaches and boardwalk of Coney Island, Jacobs always returned to the community that had welcomed him since childhood. After his passing in 2000, his daughters, Cindy and Melody, continue to run the restaurant with the same love for Coney Island that he once had.
“What makes Coney Island so special is that there are no typical days,” said Michael Sarrel, who married Melody and is now the store manager of Ruby’s. “Everyone who runs Coney Island is a character because you’re running a business and dealing with all sorts of characters yourself. Once you’ve spent some time here, it rubs off on you.”
Every day feels like an adventure at Coney Island to Sarrel. He describes it as a true melting pot, where people from all walks of life gather — and remarkably, everybody gets along.
Much like Miller at Brooklyn Beach Shop, Sarrel recalls many moments when the vendors on the boardwalk helped each other out in times of need, a reflection of their close community and mutual respect.
“Somebody always needs help, and we’re all here for each other,” he said. “When I run out of cups, I go next door to Paul’s. If they run out of soda, they come and take some of ours.”
Just a few stops down, Deno’s Snack Bar stands proudly with the iconic Wonder Wheel towering behind it — part of a larger legacy rooted in Deno’s Wonder Wheel Amusement Park.
“My grandfather started the business here as a food trailer in the late 70s or 80s,” said Deno “DJ” Vourderis, grandson of Denos Vourderis, who bought the Wonder Wheel in 1983 and opened the theme park. “From there, we expanded back into the park, got this building, and eventually purchased the Wonder Wheel.”
For Deno, it’s not uncommon to see people who grew up in Brooklyn return to Coney Island years later with their children and grandchildren in tow, eager to share the same rides they once enjoyed. He says it’s especially meaningful to watch families come back from places like New Jersey, Florida and beyond to relive their memories and pass along their love for Coney Island.
During the off-season, Deno remains in the area, staying busy with ride maintenance, painting and cleaning the park — always mindful of the constant upkeep required.
“We stay positive and remember that the sun will come out eventually,” he said. “At the end of the day, we’re all grateful to work here — with the smell of the ocean and the sound of seagulls in the distance. I’m just here trying to put kids on rides, make them happy, and support the other businesses on the boardwalk that have been here since the beginning.”
