The latest addition to Bay Ridge’s ever-burgeoning
dining scene is Agnanti Meze. The restaurant that serves traditional
Greek dishes is the clone of the popular, 3-year-old eatery of
the same name in Astoria, Queens. The latest Agnanti Meze, an
80-seat, rustic looking room with black-and-white photos of Athenian
residents on the walls and hand-painted crockery on the tables,
opened Dec. 30.
The menu of chef-owner Spiros Sidorakis (his partner is Maria
Lambrianidis) stays true to the simple cooking of the region
with familiar meze such as "taramasalata," the carp
fish roe spread; "tsatsiki," the cooling cucumber salad
dressed with yogurt that’s garnished with mint and paprika; and
crisp leaves of phyllo dough filled with spinach and feta cheese,
"spanakopita."
The preparation of grilled salmon – lightly adorned with lemon
and olive oil – and fresh sardines – grilled or cooked with rosemary
– lets the quality of the fish shine through. There is "souvlaki"
(slices of roasted, skewered meat) on the menu, too. His moist
chicken version of the dish is "legendary," says Sidorakis
proudly.
(Pictured at left is the "Dolmades yialantzi," hand-rolled
grape leaves stuffed with rice and herbs.)
Be careful of the retsina on the mostly Greek wine list. The
wine seems innocuous, but down a couple glasses of the pine-flavored
vino and you’ll be dancing on the table like Zorba the Greek.
When spring actually feels like spring, the owners will set up
tables on the side of the restaurant for outdoor dining.
Agnanti Meze (7802 Fifth Ave. at 78th Street in Bay Ridge) accepts
cash only. Entrees: $5.50 to $20.50. The restaurant serves lunch
on the weekends from 1 am to 4 pm; dinner is available daily.
For reservations, call (718) 833-7033.
