Places like Smithwick’s Bar & Restaurant
can be found in any American city or affluent suburb. The long
bar that runs down one side of the cavernous front room, lit
with faux-Grecian chandeliers, and the dining area’s sponge-painted
walls and white linen tablecloths have the anonymous feeling
of a hotel restaurant.
The one unlikely spot to find a restaurant like Smithwick’s would
be on Smith Street, where it opened in May. Wedged between the
little bistros, ever-proliferating Thai establishments and trendy
bars and lounges, the blandly attractive interior of Smithwick’s
and its something-for-everyone menu has the uneasy air of a Mormon
in a drag club.
Smithwick’s is the latest venture of Seamus O’Toole and Terry
Traynor, the owners of eight-year-old Eammon’s, an Irish bar
and restaurant on Montague Street in Brooklyn Heights. While
more upscale than its predecessor, the Irish waitstaff have the
same accommodating spirit. Three-quarters of the eatery’s huge
space is dedicated to the bar, which attracts a convivial crowd.
The blackboard outside Smithwick’s announced "D.J. Richie
fresh from ’The Ridge.’" Richie’s followers, and a few stray,
messy-haired, black-clad Smith Street regulars grooved to the
Bee Gee’s "More than a Woman."
The cuisine is a hybrid of American steakhouse standards and
authentic Irish dishes. Chef Noel Thompson, a native of Waterford,
Ireland, trained in Europe and earned his stripes over the course
of 19 years working in the kitchens of two well-known Irish-American
establishments – Peggy O’Neill’s in Bay Ridge and John Barleycorn’s
in Connecticut. Thompson does his best to uplift Smithwick’s
rather bland menu, and most of the time he succeeds.
Among the appetizers of coconut shrimp, barbecued baby back ribs
and jumbo shrimp cocktail served with avocado and Bloody Mary
dipping sauce, was a special of mulligatawny soup.
I’ve had very good renditions of this aromatic Indian soup, but
Thompson’s was outstanding. Rich and soothing, the warm heat
of the curry spread slowly over the palate. Atop the soup sat
a spoonful of mango chutney that added a bit of cool sweetness
and a lingering cinnamon flavor. Tender slices of white and dark
chicken meat made a meal of the dish.
Thompson fries up a nice platter of lightly breaded, not greasy
calamari. The big, tender slices of squid had the distinct flavor
of clean peanut oil and salt. A side of fresh tomato dipping
sauce was just garlicky enough and enjoyably pulpy.
Two meat entrees had real stick-to-your-ribs appeal. Three hefty
lamb chops arrived with a thick rim of fat – a good thing in
my opinion. When it’s grilled, lamb fat has the crispest edge
and a luscious, buttery texture. The dish comes with a side of
spinach and mushroom "dressing" (that’s "stuffing"
to you Americans) that’s as appealing a side dish for this season
as one could want. Mashed potatoes were whipped until light and
creamy.
I wasn’t as enamored with the flank steak. The slices were slightly
overcooked, and the meat’s mustard and Balsamic vinegar marinade
was too sharp.
Smithwick’s is one of the few eateries in the neighborhood to
offer an authentic Irish grill: a lamb chop, bacon, sausage and
fried egg combo. There’s enough fat and cholesterol in that dish
to make an Atkin’s follower ecstatic. Other tried and true dishes
from the Emerald Isle include fish and chips, and a poached wild
salmon with a whiskey-accented, creamy dill sauce.
Thompson is a Cordon Bleu-trained pastry chef and his simple
desserts reflect his education. His lemony cheesecake is rich
yet light, pleasantly tart, and its graham cracker crust adds
a crisp texture.
I’d stop into Smithwick’s for a cup of the restaurant’s strong
coffee and sublime Key lime pie. The pie’s filling is more tart
than sweet and is flavored slightly with mint, adding a fragrant,
herbal note.
A few years ago, my in-laws came for a visit from California.
They’re not adventurous eaters, but they like a nice meal in
an attractive setting. We took them to a lovely French bistro
in Manhattan where they picked at their small portions and rolled
their eyes at the prices.
Later, in my kitchen, my mother-in-law said of the meal, "I
just like a nice piece of meat with a salad and a potato."
Next time they visit, I’ll have the perfect place to take them.
Smithwick’s Bar & Restaurant (191
Smith St. between Baltic and Warren streets in Boerum Hill) accepts
Visa, MasterCard, American Express and Discover. Entrees: $10-$26.
The restaurant serves lunch and dinner seven days a week, and
brunch on weekends from noon to 4 pm. For reservations call (347)
643-9911.
