Nothing beats sitting outside on a bright
summer day, and Brooklyn’s garden cafes bring diners out of hibernation
in droves.
Different from lounging at a sidewalk cafe, where people-watching
is an integral part of the experience, there’s a sense of magic
about languishing in a garden cafe, no matter how highbrow or
lowbrow the establishment.
To be surrounded by nature, taking in the scents and sounds is
all the more enchanting for those of us who live in an urban
environment like Brooklyn where, more often than not, the likes
of sirens and exhaust fumes are more familiar than birds and
the rustling of trees.
Brooklyn Botanic Garden
The Brooklyn Botanic Garden, on Flatbush Avenue between Empire
Boulevard and Eastern Parkway, is an oasis of serenity in this
otherwise kinetic section of town. The many gardens within the
Garden include the famous Cherry Esplanade, a huge expanse of
lawn bordered by double rows of cherry trees, particularly resplendent
in early spring; the world famous Cranford Rose Garden, at the
height of its glory in June; and the Japanese Garden, spectacular
in every season, where soothing miniature waterfalls flow into
a pond crossed by elegant bridges.
There are herb and rock gardens, a fragrance garden and the Shakespeare
Garden, which includes 80 plants, herbs and spices mentioned
by the Bard himself.
While picnicking on the lawns is not allowed, the Terrace Cafe,
nestled between the four glass houses of the Steinhardt Pavilion,
is a peaceful and pleasant spot to lunch. The handsome angularity
of the glass structures with the silhouettes of myriad plants
reflecting out, adds to a sense of otherworldliness.
There are round, glass tables surrounded by bistro chairs and
a big green umbrella over each table. Large clay pots filled
with olive saplings, poppies and other bright flowers sit in
the middle of the seating area. As a child sweeps past me in
hot pursuit of a wayward pigeon, I have a fleeting sense of being
in Paris or Rome.
The cafe itself is a counter to the side of the seating area
under a large green awning. The menu, written on a chalkboard
beside the counter, offers a selection of half a dozen sandwiches
and salads, several soups, thin crust pizza, frankfurters and
hamburgers.
The sandwiches – chicken with walnut, tuna, turkey breast with
orange ($5.50 each) – are adequate though not very exciting (tending
toward dry and tasteless), though the focaccia with basil and
mozzarella, is dense and cake-like, and the greens accompanying
the sandwiches are fresh and crisp. The salads – grilled chicken,
potato and pasta – like the sandwiches, are on the ordinary side
with somewhat insipid dressings.
The winning selection on this menu is the soup. The day I visited,
the selection was broccoli, bean and tomato basil. Clearly homemade,
the broccoli soup was pleasingly thick and chunky, and cooked
to perfection.
The apple pie, which was also touted as homemade, was very disappointing
– too sweet, too cold and barely flavored, it tasted more like
something that had recently come out of a box than pastry out
of a home kitchen (soups $3.75, desserts $2.95). Another thumbs
down for the coffee, which was weak and bitter.
But the setting of the Terrace Cafe is so divine, (five stars,
by me, on a 1-to-5 scale), that it’s worth a trip.
Order the soup, which comes with a substantial slice of Italian
bread, and a glass of iced tea – which is the real thing. Order
the carrot cake for dessert, satisfyingly dense and moist with
large quantities of sinful cream cheese frosting.
And remember to arrive early (pre-noon) as the cafe tends to
get crowded, especially on pretty days.
The Community Bookstore
Unlike the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, the Community Bookstore’s
garden is tiny and unkempt, but the ambience is utterly delightful,
and the food is surprisingly good for such a small cafe.
Almost hidden at the back of the bookstore at Seventh Avenue
and Carroll Street, the cafe consists of half a dozen small,
round, marble-topped cafe tables with little bentwood cafe chairs.
There are dark wooden bookcases on three sides and double French
doors out to the garden at the back. The transom at the top of
the doors is a charming painting of grapevines on glass – bringing
Tuscany or the south of France to mind.
Three little tables in the garden make it possible to enjoy the
small fishpond surrounded by vine-covered brick walls that define
this secret garden, safe from the city’s woes. And on nice days,
when the French doors are opened, the whole indoor cafe area
has the feel of being outdoors.
This is the kind of place where you’ll find yourself spending
the afternoon when you’ve stopped in to buy one thing. There
are people standing among the stacks reading, crouched on the
floor perusing books, and sitting in the cafe area drinking coffee
and reading the paper.
Breakfast traffic is heavy most days, with parents dropping in
for a tea or coffee and a muffin after dropping children off
at school. The muffins (apple, poppy seed, blueberry and carrot,
the day I was there) are big and moist, and not too sweet. And
the coffee (Dallas Brothers) is dense and rich. Quality teas
are from the Republic of Tea, with a large selection of both
regular and decaffeinated.
I was surprised by the quality of the lunch and dinner offerings.
The Tuscan white bean soup (from Naturally Delicious) was hearty,
spicy and flavorful with the right amount of garlic and onion.
The pot pies (chicken and vegetarian) were full of fresh, tasty
vegetables, well-prepared in a crust that remained crisp without
being heavy. (Hot and cold soups, $3.95; pot pies, $4.50.)
"I like to use local caterers for the breads, muffins and
salads," says David McLendon, the cafe’s manager for the
last three years. "The curried chicken salad and the quiche
are our two most popular menu items. We have a lot of repeat
customers who keep coming back for their favorite dishes and
our relaxed atmosphere." (Curried chicken salad sandwich
on sundried tomato English muffin, $4.50; whole quiche, $4.50.)
One can see why. Indoors or out, you have the feeling of being
in a friend’s house when sitting in the Community Bookstore Cafe
– a friend with lots of good books, a very cute garden, great
coffee and mellow classical music.
Come here for a break in your morning for coffee and a muffin,
lunch with a friend for a very private chat, or a simple romantic
dinner that’s utterly affordable. Come here to support the kind
of establishment that makes a community a neighborhood.
The Terrace Cafe [Brooklyn Botanic Garden,
1000 Washington Ave., (718) 623-7200] is closed Mondays. Cash
only. Garden admission is $3, $1.50 seniors and students. For
more information, go to www.bbg.org.
The Community Bookstore [143 Seventh Ave. between Carroll and
Garfield streets, (718) 783-3075] is open seven days a week,
except Christmas and New Year’s. Accepts all major credit cards.