It’s a woman’s world at the new Jolie Restaurant
on Atlantic Avenue. The name of the cafe, which opened Oct. 27,
means "pretty" in French, and pretty it is.
The cafe’s neighbor, Axelle Galleries, has supplied an exhibition
of Les femmes jolies, who frolic on paintings, prints and photos
on the warm ocher walls. Below the babes are Valentine-colored
suede banquettes softly lit with modern chandeliers.
The girls may lure customers in, but it is chef Michel Pombet’s
French menu that will seduce them. Pombet, formerly of the celebrated
DeMarchelier in Manhattan, offers winter warmers like a creamy
oxtail terrine with cornichons and onion compote; sweet breads
champagne (center) with sauteed spinach and potatoes; and whole
grilled dorade (a mild, fresh water fish) with sauteed endive
and fennel.
In keeping with the lusty and lush theme, Pombet flambes crepes
Suzette with brandy; layers tart and sweet autumn apples atop
a buttery crust for his rustic house-made tarte Tatin; and fills
profiteroles (puffs of tender pastry) with cream before drizzling
the dessert with bittersweet chocolate. You’ll want to sit in
a dark corner while you eat it.
Jolie Restaurant (320 Atlantic Ave. between Hoyt and Smith streets
in Boerum Hill) accepts American Express. Entrees: $12-$20. The
restaurant serves lunch and dinner daily. For reservations, call
(718) 488-0777.
