GRECO ROMANCE

If you’re eager to remove yourself from
the cold and gray of Brooklyn in late winter, stop in at Elia
in Bay Ridge for dinner.

Take advantage of the valet parking, and
go with an appetite for the Greek classics – grilled octopus
and Greek salad.

Greek music plays softly, setting the mood
while whitewashed brick walls and exposed beams evoke the "estiatorias"
(small restaurants or taverns serving basic Greek food) that
can be found in so many quaint Greek towns. The decor is carefully
chosen and sparse – a few cheerful bright oil paintings on the
walls, white linens and low candles.

Co-executive chefs Roger Clatterbuck, formerly
of the River Cafe and Aureole, and Culinary Institute of America-trained
Helen Papapostolou combine their talents to bring Elia’s menu
of classic dishes – like Avgolemono soup with its lemon juice,
egg yolk and chicken stock – to life. Papapostolou has worked
with Emeril Lagasee, Brendan Walsh and Stephen Piles. Both chefs
have Greek roots and a deep love for their homeland’s cuisine
which shows in the carefully prepared, beautifully presented
dishes. Elia is owned by Pete and Christina Lekkas.

When my husband and I first sat down in
Elia, which means "olive," an assortment of homemade
breads and olives was brought to our table. I was transported
by the four-cheese and potato rolls made by Papapostolou – dense,
yeasty and suffused with cheese, this was bread I’d walk a mile
for. With the olives, the kalamata being my favorite, I hardly
thought about ordering an entree.

Then came the light yet substantial glass
of Gaia Estates 1998 wine, made from St. Georges grapes, which
come from the area surrounding the Greek city of Nemea. Sipping
the wine, I had arrived. I was there on the beach in Crete, on
my honeymoon nearly 30 years ago.

But the food kept coming, and I continued
to be surprised. I had loved octopus since I first tasted it
in Crete, and have since been disappointed by rubbery, tasteless
fare in most restaurants here. Elia has the touch, though. Their
octopus, grilled then sauteed, is served with lemon juice and
herbs in its own juices. It was one of the best things we ate
that night – a definite must, even for all you octopus-haters
out there.

The Prince Edward Island mussels, steamed
in ouzo, were served out of their shells over a bed of greens
and topped with green olive roast crostini. The sauce, slightly
sweet from the ouzo and tart from the olives, was piquant and
unique in its light tomato base.

The 10 entrees on the menu offered a wide
variety of meats and fish – pork, lamb, chicken, beef, salmon,
fish of the day and shellfish. The sea bass, caught off the West
Coast of Cypress, was grilled and served with roasted red pepper,
Belgian endive and roasted potatoes. A dense fish with a delicate
flavor, this was lighter fare than many of the meats, and very
good.

For a richer, heavier entree, the charcoal
grilled marinated pork loin with wild mushrooms and garlic mashed
potatoes, though less subtle, made a satisfyingly filling and
tasty main course on a cold night.

Side dishes worth mentioning include the
Yukon gold mashed potatoes with roast garlic and kalamata olives
(comfort food!) and Kritharaki, slow-cooked orzo with oven-dried
tomatoes and fresh oregano (great with fish or fowl), as well
as a tasty spread called Htipiti, a delicious mixture of feta
cheese, green pepper and chili, good for dipping raw cauliflower
and carrots.

I’m such a fan of the dessert baklava (paper-thin
layers of pastry with chopped nuts and honey) that none of the
other desserts caught my fancy. But my husband thought the rice
pudding was on a par with his mother’s – not sticky or too sweet
– and a hard-to-come-by compliment. The real after-dinner treat
was the Samos Muscat, a sweet, fruity golden wine, a mellow end
to our little sojourn in Greece.