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HAPPY ENDING - Brooklyn Paper

HAPPY ENDING

World of flavor: The Coq Hardi team - waiter Richard Oceguera, owner Mourad Belghanem and chef Geoffrey Bernard - with their pan-seared halibut and oven-roasted vegetables with peppercorn sauce.
The Brooklyn Papers / Greg Mango

Every so often a couple will return from
a European vacation with a nicest-night-of-their-vacation story.
It goes something like this: They were in a smallish European
town (maybe in southern France, maybe Moravia, maybe the Umbrian
region of Italy), and they stopped into a cozy looking bistro
for dinner.

The proprietor was charming and sent over
a complimentary aperitif (something regional that the local old
men drink while playing cards).

The food was delicious and the recommended
wine amazingly good. The vacationers were effusive in their praise
and gratitude. They insisted that the proprietor join them for
a glass of dessert wine. The night stretched on, a special bottle
from the cellar was dusted off and opened, conversation flowed
and the evening ended with clasped hands, promises of return,
etc.

A visit to Coq Hardi, the Algerian-influenced
French bistro in Brooklyn Heights, won’t necessarily follow the
"nicest night" script, but with proprietor Mourad Belghanem
on the premises, the potential is always there.

Visually, the new restaurant, located in
the second-floor space formerly occupied by Overstreets, doesn’t
have much Old World charm other than the large plate-glass windows
overlooking Montague Street. The charm comes primarily from Belghanem’s
welcoming personality and the omnipresent sounds of Edith Piaf,
Charles Aznavour or some other mid-century French chansonnier.

The food has considerable charm as well.
Even a common appetizer like calamari can be appreciated anew
when served not battered and fried but freshly grilled and tossed
with cucumber, lemon, garlic and parsley as in the calamars grilles
au citron.

Or for a patron interested in really jumpstarting
their taste buds prior to tackling an entree, the tartare de
thon au poivrons rotis, a combination of tuna tartar, roasted
peppers, parmesan and anchovies is a piquant starter. It is hard
to make tuna tartar and anchovies look attractive but this appetizer
was served with the parmesan shaved into little wings – an appreciated
decorative garnish.

The Coq Hardi entrees are classic dishes
of southern France like the bourride de poisson du marche, cousin
to bouillabaisse but with a saffron, rather than tomato-based,
broth. The bourride’s broth may be a little delicate for some
palates, but along the same culinary line – yet more flavorful,
are the saumon cloute aux anchois, or grilled salmon with anchovy
filets, served with sliced provencal vegetables on a bed of tomato
coulis and French basil, and the poulet bandolais, oven confit
chicken with herbs served with an eggplant, olive and caper casserole.

Belghanem says that his mother insisted
he serve a couscous dish, which he does in a traditional style
with lamb, chicken, merguez (lamb sausage) and vegetables, braised
in a lightly spicy broth.

Equally traditional and Mediterranean is
the tajine d’agneau a la menthe, a Moroccan lamb stew with spices,
served with white beans, braised fennel and mint.

Some people react to reading a menu on
which the names of dishes are in French by protectively grabbing
their wallets. But all the entrees mentioned above are moderately
priced – $13 to $16.

Actually, the end of a meal at Coq Hardi
is perhaps the nicest part. Not only will the bill seem friendly,
but also there are standout desserts such as the apples soaked
in Calvados brandy served with ice cream. Things should only
get better as the weather warms and patrons are allowed to sneak
through the kitchen to dine al fresco on the restaurant’s back
patio.

Belghanem says that the inspiration for
his restaurant’s name came from a large bordello-style restaurant
in Nice that was a popular place for American GIs to drink Pastis
and meet French girls during World War II. Indeed, on the night
we visited Coq Hardi a group of four American patrons chatting
with Belghanem in French included two older gentlemen who might
well have been among those GIs.

Which suggests one of the nicest things
about Coq Hardi – it seems to be a restaurant for adults. The
patrons were in no particular rush, they didn’t appear to be
packing cell phones and they were apparently familiar with the
Maurice Chevalier songs on the hi-fi. So if you are a grown-up
person or just want to be in a grown-up atmosphere for a change,
the brand new Coq Hardi will prove refreshingly mature.

 

Coq Hardi is located at 142 Montague
St., second floor, between Clinton and Henry streets. For reservations,
call (718) 246-5577. Coq Hardi accepts all major credit cards.


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