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Krescendo hits the right notes • Brooklyn Paper

Krescendo hits the right notes

Two pies make it right: Owner Nancy Puglisi’s restaurant Krescendo serves fennel and margherita pizzas.
Stefano Giovannini

With a blood-orange facade and Edison-style bulbs hanging inside rusted industrial whisks in the tall and welcoming front windows, the decor of the new Neapolitan pizzeria Krescendo in Boerum Hill is much like the joint venture that brought it to life — a combination of old school Brooklyn and authentic Italian passion.

The restaurant, which opened on November Eighth after delays caused by Hurricane Sandy, is the work of Brooklyn native Nancy Puglisi and certified pizzaiola Elizabeth Falkner, former San Francisco pastry-chef of Top Chef fame.

“The atmosphere I’ve replicated is that of old Brooklyn, from the tin ceiling to the original 1940s lamps which were salvaged from a building downtown,” said owner-operator Puglisi.

While the restaurant has a selection of Italian appetizers, salads, and homemade pastas, it only takes one glance at the glimmering, wood-burning oven protruding from the back wall to know that pizza is the main attraction.

“Krescendo is a unique restaurant because of the passion we have to truly represent artisan Neapolitan pizza,” said Puglisi. “Our oven and ingredients are from Naples, replicating what pizza is like in Napoli.”

The pizza menu is divided into two sections — “Pizza Napoletana” and “Classic Italian.” While standbys like Pizza Margherita ($13) fit under the first category, the more adventurous eater might opt for the second category, with such creations as the “Californication,” a staff favorite of mozzarella, goat cheese, arugula walnut pesto, Padrón peppers, prosciutto, arugula and honey ($15), or the award-winning “Finnochio Flower Power,” which hosts panna, provolone, braised fennel, fennel fronds, fennel sausage, fennel pollan, fiori di finnochio and a touch of chili powder ($13). You need not be a lifelong fennel enthusiast to appreciate this pizza. The sourdough crust alone – light, crisp, and well charred– provides half the flavor. The toppings, far from burdensome, are added with a light touch and are floral, salty, meaty, sweet and savory all at once.

As customers finish their pizzas, they’ll notice the polished gold trophy by the oven. It’s Falkner’s take-home from the 2012 Naples World Pizza Cup — she came in first place for her finocchio pizza.

Puglisi says it’s this type of passion that makes Krescendo stand out.

“We hope to keep feeding people and making them smile, while having them understand that food is synonymous with passion!”

Krescendo [364 Atlantic Ave. between Hoyt and Bond streets in Boerum Hill, (718) 330–0888, www.krescendobrooklyn.com].

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