If there were a single wish Brooklyn diners
would make, they’d want an eatery in their neighborhood where
they truly enjoyed hanging out. It would be a place where they
felt comfortable sitting at the bar alone and ordering a cocktail;
where they could suggest a few friends meet and know that they’ll
share a pleasant meal; and, if they were in the mood, perhaps
shoot a game of pool. Most important though, would be the hours.
If they staggered home from the office at midnight, the kitchen
would still be open for business.
I’ve just described Apartment 138 on Smith Street, a bar and
restaurant which was opened in 2005 by Tedd Mann (Cebu Bistro
in Bay Ridge; Bar 4 in Park Slope; and Matchless in Greenpoint)
and Alfred DiScipio, Mann’s partner in this venture and the Boerum
Hill bar, Camp.
Out of a former duplex – hence the name – the duo fashioned a
space that meets several needs: The ground floor houses a bar
area that is warm and a little funky without an iota of kitsch;
beyond the bar is an inviting dining room with wooden tables,
white chairs, a photomural of bamboo trees and a long communal
table. Patrons sitting at the table can see the goings on in
the lovely back patio below where 35 diners eat beneath umbrella-topped
tables. On a recent Sunday evening, an active foosball game was
in progress and a couple shot pool in the brightly lit game room.
The ambience speaks more to what the owners don’t want than what
they do: They’re not trying to create a chic bar setting or add
another ambitious bistro to the area. (There are enough of those
along the avenue already.) With the setting and menu, they offer
familiarity with a twist: A bartender who knows how to make a
cocktail that isn’t too sweet; a kitchen that can blend a black
and white milkshake like the best old school soda jerk; and,
if you missed breakfast, you can still have your Frosted Flakes
at 2 am. (The morning meal is served until closing.)
Chef Simon Lange (formerly of Cocotte in Park Slope), who started
in February, understands what diners want from a neighborhood
place and offers a few specials each night that could distract
them from their glass of wine.
You’ll be happy if you order the pressed sandwiches. Ingredients
like portobello and wild mushrooms with prosciutto and shaved
Parmesan, or an upscale cheesesteak made with rare beef, cheddar
cheese, sauteed onions and garlic mayonnaise transcends ordinary
bar food. Both sandwiches are ideal with a beer. (There are 12
bottled varieties and six on draft.) There are several large,
juicy burgers as well as salads and a few hearty pasta dishes.
I’d avoid the gazpacho that, like most soups of this kind, tasted
like a bowl of salsa.
But Lange does a beautiful job with an appetizer of grilled shrimp.
A skewer held several large crustaceans, cooked until just tender
with a delightful bite of black pepper. A pineapple salsa added
a touch of sweetness.
However, his sweet tooth can trip him up. A spinach salad with
pear slices and roasted chunks of the fruit topped with bleu
cheese could have used the tartness of lemony vinaigrette to
set off the sweet fruit. Instead the greens were tossed with
a honey-balsamic dressing that wasn’t bad, but crisp, toasted
walnuts with a candy coating toppled the mix into too-sweet-territory.
I found a similar flaw in a more ambitious entree of seared tuna.
The slices were meaty and rare; and they were served with bok
choy sauteed until tender, its slight bitterness complementing
the rich fish. Asian spicy mustard – one of two sauces drizzled
over the fish – was cloying. The other topping, a wasabi glaze,
had just the right heat to brighten the dish.
I liked Lange’s grilled sea scallops over field greens tossed
with citrus vinaigrette and paired with pieces of grapefruit.
The tart fruit and dressing emphasized the delicate sweetness
of the fish, but slices of plum tomatoes only added a touch of
color to the ingredients.
Lange does a credible job with a dish that isn’t easy to come
by in the borough: good ribs. The fall-off-the-bone, barbequed
baby backs were brushed with a tangy sauce that enhances the
rich meat. He wisely accompanies the rack with a moist chunk
of grilled corn and a small dish of coleslaw.
Neither the creme brulee or toasted pound cake slices sandwiching
vanilla, chocolate and pistachio ice cream – two of about eight
desserts that include mini pressed ice cream sandwiches, cheesecake
and a warm pecan pie with vanilla ice cream – did much for me.
The first had a heavy sugar coating and loose creme beneath;
the other was simply dull.
There may be a few flaws in the kitchen, but Apartment 138 isn’t
aiming to climb great culinary summits. The cooks do a credible
job, and besides, where else are you going to get Rice Krispies
and a martini at 1 am?
Apartment 138 (138 Smith St. between
Bergen and Dean streets in Boerum Hill) accepts American Express,
Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard and Visa. Entrees: $12-$18.
The restaurant serves lunch and dinner daily. Brunch is available
on weekends, from 11 am to 4 pm. For more information, call (718)
858-0556.
