From early October to mid-March, Henry’s
End, a northern Brooklyn Heights restaurant known for its wild
game, offers New Orleans turtle soup.
"The soup is loosely based on Paul Prudhomme’s recipe, but
is richer and spicier," says the restaurant’s owner and
chef, Mark Lahm. (Prudhomme is the capacious Louisiana chef who
brought the term "blackened" to the culinary landscape
in the 1980’s.) Unlike some establishments that add sherry directly
to the soup, Lahm prefers a traditional approach. Sherry is served
on the side, so Lahm says, a "customer can have an interactive
experience" and add the sherry (or not) to the soup themselves.
In 2002, Lahm was chosen by members of the James Beard Society
to serve the luxurious, smoky flavored soup during a luncheon
in the society’s Manhattan townhouse.
Pair the soup with a great bottle of wine from his all-American
list that has won the Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator
magazine every year since 1987. And if you’re game, follow the
fabulous appetizer with an elk or ostrich chop.
Henry’s End (44 Henry St. between Cranberry and Middagh streets
in Brooklyn Heights) accepts Visa, MasterCard, American Express
and Discover. Dinner is served seven nights a week. For reservations
call (718) 834-1776.
