After conquering mile-long beer lists at Spuyten Duyvil and barbeque at Fette Sau, Joe Carroll decided that the next thing the intersection of Havemeyer and Metropolitan needed was organ meat, and lots of it — from calves’ heart jerky to beer-battered brain.
Owing to inevitable liquor license snafus, though, for now St. Anselm, Carroll’s newest venture, is serving only house-made sodas and a limited menu, consisting primarily of hot dogs. These hot dogs, though, do not by any means underwhelm.
On a menu that oddly takes many of its cues from New Jersey culinary tradition, the star is undoubtedly the Newark dog ($11), easily the granddaddy of every other hot dog that has ever graced the earth. Two franks are deep fried, stuffed in a giant-sized bun of “pizza bread” and topped with golden, crispy French fries and an delicious, lightly breaded peppers and onions, fried in beef tallow.
The toppings impress — and make it difficult to eat — once you finally bite into that moist, succulent hot dog, true bliss awaits. At St. Anselm, the hot dogs are specially made by Karl Ehmer — they’re a little smoky, a little spicy and fresher than you could ever imagine a hot dog to taste.
Of course, if you’re not in the mood for two whole franks topped with multiple counts of artery clogging, fried goodness, the plain hot dog ($3.50; also deep fried) is a good option.
But really, who would trade deep fried hot dog heaven for veal heart steak?
St. Anselm [355 Metropolitan Ave. at Havemeyer St. in Williamsburg, (718) 384-5054].
