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To Stem or Not to Stem?

To Stem
.

Glasses can
often do much more than simply serve as the vessels we use to enjoy our
wine. A clear glass shows off the color of the wine served in it. Years
of experimentation have shown us that different wines do taste better
when drunk from differently sized and shaped glasses. One of the world’s
most widely known glassmakers put on a demonstration for us during the
international Sommelier competition in Tokyo: we each had his Red Bordeaux,
Red Burgundy and White Burgundy glasses in front of us. A waiter came
to the table, presented a bottle of Bordeaux, opened it and poured about
an ounce into each glass. The difference was astounding! I have repeated
this exercise dozens of times, and everyone, even the most skeptical,
agrees that the difference that glassware makes can be amazing.

No one, other than an insufferable wine snob, will tell you that you need
a full set of glasses for every wine, and common sense as well as budget
should rule over your purchases. You can find wine glasses in the size,
shape and style that you like, and are “right” for the wines
that you drink, at any price point. An ‘all purpose” wine glass
is right for most of us. What makes a wine glass good?

Clarity. You should be able to see the color of the wine you’re
drinking, not only for sensual enjoyment, but to determine the condition
of the wine. An off-color wine is often a spoiled wine.

Shape. Round, so that you can swirl the wine, coating the inside
of the glass to better enjoy the aromas and bouquet. A bowl that is wider
than the opening at the top is ideal for concentrating the bouquet, too.

Size. Large enough that four or five ounces fills the glass less
than halfway. This also allows you to better enjoy the aromas of the wine.
Pick a size that you are comfortable with. There are some mouth-blown
glasses on the market that seem just too big to drink from. They also
look like someone’s idea of a joke to play on a wine lover who takes
it all a bit too seriously. These expensive behemoths also tend to break
quite easily.

The rim. Your wine will taste better if the rim of the glass is
thin. A thick rimmed glass may be more chip resistant, but your wine won’t
taste as good from it.

The stem. In ancient times, glass was expensive, and most people
could not afford a glass to drink from. Wood, earthenware and metal were
used by almost everybody. Having glassware on the table was a sign of
wealth. This changed during the Eighteenth Century, when mass produced
glassware became affordable. The shapes made mimicked the glasses already
in use in noble households, where the idea of a stemmed glass was considered
proper.

The stem serves several purposes: when you hold a glass by the stem, the
glass stays clean of fingerprints. The heat from your hands does not warm
the wine when you use the stem. (Cognac glasses are designed so that your
hand wraps around them, the better to warm the brandy.) Young ladies and
gentlemen are taught from an early age that it is “proper” to
hold a glass by the stem, and this training is hard to break.

So… what’s going on with stemless wine glasses? The stem is often
the weakest part of the glass: I’ve lost dozens of glasses over the
years from breaking stems. This, obviously, isn’t a problem with
stemless glasses. Some people with limited cabinet space like the compact
size of the stemless tumblers, too… and they do lend a casual air to
your wine drinking. I’ve been in little trattorias and bistros in
the countryside where the local wines were served in small tumblers, and
it was part of the charm of the experience. I don’t recommend them
for a formal dining table, but for everyday meals, snacks or just relaxed
sipping, the stemless glasses are affordable, fun and fine.

P.S. I use the smaller sized Chardonnay one for my brandy. It works great!