Deity goes from dancing to dinner

Bartender Thurman Wise, who is so into cocktails that he has a tattoo of legendary barkeep Jerry Thomas, makes a Blue Blazer, a flaming bourbon drink that Thomas made famous decades ago.
The Brooklyn Paper / Tom Callan

Brooklyn doesn’t have many restaurants like Deity.

When it opened in 2005 in a former synogogue, Deity was a velvet-rope-deploying, bottle-service-offering nightclub on a formerly forgotten strip of Atlantic Avenue. But last month, owners Caio and Kristine Dunson added their own contribution to the Boerum Hill strip’s resurgence by turning the main room into a supper club.

During dinner hours, the clubby space serves up stunning cocktails and entrees. A DJ never lets the music get in the way of diners’ appreciation of the sleek, cool, Manhattan-ish room or the food served in it.

Cocktails — such as the stellar Red Hand (tequila, Liquore Strega, Campari, mint and sugar, $13) — were created by Thurman Wise, who takes his booze seriously (hence the tattoo on his arm of Jerry Thomas, the legendary barkeep).

Rising culinary star Cesar Ramirez, of the nearby Brooklyn Fare, created the menu, which has many hits — guacamole and chip ($7) the deconstructed Caesar salad ($8), braised short ribs ($17) a burger ($13) — and a minor miss or two (skip the cod fritters, $12).

At around 10 pm, the tempo and the volume go up a bit — a perfect mood enhancer for an after-dinner drink or dessert (or both — the “Cookies and milk” features a chocolate-chip sandwich with Bailey’s Irish Cream).

Deity (368 Atlantic Ave. between Hoyt and Bond street in Boerum Hill, no phone). Closed Monday and Tuesday. For info, visit www.deitynyc.com.

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