As you drive down Fourth Avenue toward
the Verrazano Bridge, especially at night, the view is simply
breathtaking. Something about the simplicity of that structure’s
lines, and the way it is lit suggests huge perfect pearls strung
delicately in the sky.
Pazzo, however, at the corner of 100th Street and Fourth Avenue,
is very much about interior space, as became apparent to my husband
and I as soon as we walked through the door (after having been
spared the arduous task of finding a parking spot by way of Pazzo’s
complimentary valet service).
Clearly a lot of work went into the total renovation and interior
design of three-month-old Pazzo – Italian for "crazy."
But I wondered, as I entered, if the designer who transformed
Pazzo from its previous incarnation as Pyramid, a Russian nightclub,
had had an overall vision. There are arches of artificial flowers;
dark, private alcoves; bell-shaped lamps with long fringe; curtains
and drapes galore; mezzanines and levels; and two bars, one above
the other, to the right of the entrance.
But the most remarkable elements of this mishmash are large hanging
lanterns over the bars that resemble the heads of prehistoric
beasts. They seem to be made of wire bases in the shape of ram
or elephant’s heads stretched with grayish mesh. The overall
effect being somewhere between "Lord of the Rings"
and "Star Wars." If the bars were separated more from
the main dining area, these oddities might not be so disturbing,
but they are large and powerful and in utter contrast to the
glitzy feel of the rest of the decor.
Happily, the style of the cuisine at Pazzo is more confident.
Old-world Italian with just enough innovative, contemporary accents,
chef Michael Fiore’s food is consistently good, the service is
excellent and the menu is extensive. (Fiore’s impressive credits
include Cucina and the Upper East Side’s La Goulue.) Pazzo offers
appetizers, salads and main courses broken down into meats, fish
and pasta as well as a choice of four sides.
While the wine list is adequate (seven Italian white wines between
$20 and $60, three from California, one blush and a similar range
in the red wine selection), the pride of their bar offerings
is a martini menu of 13 selections. While I am not a martini
drinker, some of these drinks – such as the caramel apple martini:
Grey Goose vodka, sour apple, splash of Frangelico, served with
caramel candy – sounded downright intimidating.
Within each category of Pazzo’s menu, there are many standard,
expected selections, done well. Among the highlights on the appetizer
menu are fried calamari, a jumbo shrimp cocktail, oysters on
the half shell, mozzarella and tomatoes and prosciutto and melon.
The highlights among the entrees include boneless grilled chicken
breast, veal osso bucco, roasted rack of lamb, pan-roasted cod,
blackened mahi mahi and the penne Milanese style.
Fiore also successfully prepares old favorites with new twists.
Among the innovative appetizers there are the Pazzo crab salad
with a corn salsa, black bean puree and polenta fries; and chicken
dumplings, steamed or fried, with marinated vegetables and citrus
glaze. There are also poached pears in red wine with a gorgonzola
sauce, toasted walnuts and baby greens and grilled asparagus
salad with shaved fennel, blood oranges, toasted almonds and
lemon oil.
Highlights among the adventurous entrees include the grilled
pork chops with butternut squash, green beans, pear chutney and
port wine reduction; the sauteed salmon with braised black lentils,
asparagus and lemongrass broth; and the butternut squash ravioli
with fresh ricotta, portobello mushrooms, sage and squash sauce
pumpkin seed oil.
Of the dishes we sampled, the standouts were specials from both
the appetizer and main course selections. The pan-fried oysters
Sinclair were served lukewarm, in the shell, on a bed of lightly
sauteed fresh spinach with lots of garlic. The oysters were large
and tender, and each element was cooked to perfection.
The fried calamari, a regular menu item, kept their integrity
and flavor, and were not at all rubbery. (The accompanying tomato
sauce, however, was nothing special.)
From the main courses, we tried the special veal stew with sweet
potato puree, a thick, hearty stew consisting of bite-sized pieces
of utterly tender veal, carrots and onions, served with a beautifully
smooth, sweet puree – a dynamic winter duo.
The rack of lamb, another menu item, was served with sauteed
fingerling potatoes, pearl onions, baby carrots, mushrooms, diced
bacon and a pomegranate mustard sauce. It was elegantly presented
and cooked exactly to the specified temperature.
Also noteworthy – the crab salad from the appetizers (a great
Mexican-Italian take on an American favorite with salsa and beans,
polenta and crab!), the lentil soup (the soup of the day – just
good old-fashioned, thick homemade soup), and the butternut squash
ravioli from the menu which was a slightly sweet, very tender
pasta in a tangy black vinaigrette sauce.
I should mention, too, at this juncture, that the music at Pazzo
had the same kind of schizophrenic quality as the decor. It alternated
between loud ’70s and ’80s American popular music and relaxing
Italian classical opera. For my taste, the latter lends itself
better to the sense of wellbeing, but I readily acknowledge this
could be the personal preference of an aging food writer!
Pazzo’s tiramisu did not disappoint. It was rich in coffee flavor
and managed to maintain the delicacy of the different textures
rather than becoming one mushy take on creamy and sweet as so
many do. The cannoli were just as they should be – both crispy
and creamy with the unexpected addition of pistachio flavoring
in the filling. Good quality coffee and espresso were the final
satisfaction to this overall wonderful meal.
Pazzo, 10007 Fourth Ave. at 100th Street
in Bay Ridge accepts MasterCard, Visa and American Express. Entrees:
$10 – $25. For reservations, call (718) 238-0042. Closed Mondays.
Pazzo also features a Lobster Mania special ($29.95) on Tuesdays
from 5-10 pm and a Valentine’s Day Prix Fixe Dinner ($75 per
couple). Call for more information.
