Park Slopers love to complain about the
lack of decent pizza in their neighborhood.
Sure, they have plenty of places to grab a quick slice, but the
quality of the pies leaves a lot to be desired. One night, while
on Fifth Avenue I walked past a line of diners waiting outside
La Villa Pizzeria, a pizza and pasta restaurant that opened in
May. Shortly after that, I started hearing positive comments
about La Villa’s pies.
"It’s fabulous!" and "That crust is so crisp,"
diners said. Admitting that I had never tried it brought out
admonishment.
"Why not?" they asked. "There’s nothing like it
in the Slope."
About the rest of the food at La Villa Pizzeria the answer was
a unanimous, "Eh."
I haven’t stood in line since I went to see "Hannah and
Her Sisters" in 1986, but I waited for La Villa’s pizza.
In the heat. And, I’d do it again.
La Villa’s owners, William Rubin and Alfredo DiScipio, employ
a gimmick that has been successful in their Mill Basin and Howard
Beach La Villa pizzerias. They provide diners with a pizza parlor
menu in a setting that’s more "Architectural Digest"
than mom and pop.
The inside is cool and modern. The usual red, white and green
color scheme is replaced with neutral tones of beige, cream and
cocoa. Enough pizza parlor accoutrements are in place to provide
the interior with a comfortable, slightly nostalgic spin. There
are booths, but they are high-backed and detailed with funky
buttons; granite replaces the usual Formica in a long, curving
counter with a view of the wood-burning ovens.
The waitstaff runs from table to table stopping just long enough
to drop a basket of house-made focaccia or garlic bread on the
table and ask, "Everything good with you guys?" Shorts
and T-shirts are the dress code of choice.
La Villa’s dishes are familiar, southern Italian, red sauce specialties
like baked ziti, eggplant Parmesan and rigatoni a la vodka. The
huge portions are meant to be eaten family-style with big platters
passed around the table so everyone can try a little of this
and that.
One problem, consistent throughout the meal, was a heavy hand
with rather ordinary tomato sauce. The sauce overwhelmed the
delicate flavor of a rolled eggplant involtini appetizer, masking
the taste of the vegetable and the fluffy ricotta filling. A
special of beef braciole – thin slices of beef rolled around
a filling of cheese and simmered in tomato sauce – suffered from
the same over saucing. The meat was dense yet tender, but the
sauce hid the flavor of the meat and set the side of al dente
linguini afloat.
The pizza is the real draw and it’s worthy of the hype. Cooked
in enormous, wood-fired ovens, the pies arrive at the table as
hot as coals in a cloud of wood-scented steam. In some pizzerias
the pie is all about the topping; at La Villa it’s the crust
that sets the pizza apart.
The Napoletana’s crust is as thin as a cracker, almost brittle
yet chewy. Its edges are charred in spots and the bottom blistered.
The wood’s smoky flavor permeates the dough and perfumes the
pizza’s topping. Thick-crusted Sicilian pies fare just as well.
Focaccia di Nonna, or "Grandma’s Pizza," is layered
with homemade mozzarella, crushed San Marzano tomatoes, fresh
basil leaves, a touch of fresh garlic and olive oil. Served with
nothing more than the tomatoes, the rich cheese, the garlic and
the basil, it’s a lovely treat. Add additional toppings, like
sweet, caramelized onions and slowly sauteed peppers, as carefully
prepared as each was, and the pie becomes heavy and detracts
from that supernal crust. Order a simple pie and you’ll be happy.
Remember Mississippi mud pie? That’s about as sophisticated as
the desserts get. I shared a huge slice of a tart made with tiramisu-like,
fluffy layers of mascarpone cheese lightly flavored with espresso.
It was pleasant with a cup of strong coffee.
A couple of years ago there were no great French bistros in Park
Slope. Now it’s easy to find a good crepe. Before that, fresh
seafood was hard to come by, and sushi places didn’t dot every
block. Other pizza makers are sure to follow La Villa Pizzeria’s
fine example, but until this pizzeria has some competition, I’ll
be the first in line at La Villa.
La Villa Pizzeria (261 Fifth Ave. between
Garfield Place and First Street in Park Slope) accepts Visa,
MasterCard and American Express. Entrees: $12-$14. Pastas: $7.50-$15.
Pizza: $7.50-$21, toppings $3-$4.50 each. Delivery available.
No reservations. For information, call (718) 499-9888.
