A clothing designer for power names like
Ralph Lauren and, most recently, rap artist Snoop Doggy Dog,
Yvonne Chu has tracked the changes in Brooklyn style for the
past 13 years.
Two years ago, Chu, a resident first of
Park Slope and then of Prospect Heights, decided to move out
on her own. The architecture student turned freelance designer
opened Kimera at 274 Fifth Ave., a small boutique showcasing
both her designs and those of her friends.
On April 29, Chu will show off her designs
in a fashion show along with those of another Fifth Avenue boutique,
Brooklyn Sugar, which sells vintage and contemporary clothing
as well as original designs. The fashion show will begin at 6
pm at the Loki Lounge, 304 Fifth Ave.
For both Chu and Fifth Avenue, it’s a coming-of-age
moment: the 36-year-old designer, who grew up in Houston and
graduated from Princeton with an architecture degree in 1986,
the show is the moment when her ideas get the limelight.
Is Fifth Avenue about to go SoHo? Who knows?
"I saw the changes happening two or
three years ago, and I was looking for a location for a store,
because I wanted to keep in the neighborhood," Chu explained,
perched on a stool in Kimera late one Thursday afternoon, "and
that’s when I started seeing the changes and everything happening
– card shops and antiques stores, the rents were still reasonable,
and I thought I would take the plunge."
The plunge is her hybrid boutique, a play
on the spelling of "Chimera," the three-headed, fire-breathing
monster of Greek mythology that as legend has it is part lion,
part goat and part serpent. But Chu’s boutique is an animal of
a more subtle nature. With African masks adorning walls painted
in Caribbean-inspired hues of bright pink, green and yellow,
hung with racks of Asian-inspired pants and tops, the store reflects
both Chu’s background, and her travels, which have taken her
from Texas to as far as Bali.
Her designs to date have referenced the
traditions of China and Korea – short, mandarin-style jackets
of raw silk hung over low-hipped, flared pants, priced at $98
to $128. The sets come in gold, tangerine and sky blue.
She has also produced a line of simply
cut linen pants and linen skirts with a crocheted trim, a pantsuit
of polyester-crepe with a tunic-style jacket, and by the end
of April, the designer will release a line of cotton T-shirts,
each with a symbol representing one natural element: earth, water,
air and fire, accompanied by a handwritten philosophy reflecting
that element. The T-shirts will run about $30.
"One of the hottest markets is the
urban market," she said. "I like to be involved in
it because it influences the way everyone dresses." Chu
said the sleeveless cotton T-shirts, to be packaged in Chinese
takeout containers, are geared toward the young 20-something
consumer, looking for basic additions to her wardrobe that reflect
a connection with nature.
As the designer put it to her future customers,
"What’s your philosophy? Are you a water girl, an air girl?"
She is also getting ready to release a line of soaps that recall
the Earth’s elements, with scents like "ocean" and
"sky."
Of her clothing designs, which range from
$50 and up, Chu said, "I try to price below Manhattan, but
it depends on my costs."
While at Princeton, Chu took part in fashion
shows and after she graduated college, did an intensive course
in design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in Manhattan.
That led to a career in freelance clothing design, working at
home in Brooklyn and in studios in Manhattan.
Last year, during what she described as
an "intense" two-month period, she worked on a new
clothing line for Snoop Dog. "Very denim driven, intense,"
was how Chu described both the style and the work pace. In two
months the designs were off to the manufacturer.
"I like keeping my hand in different
things. It makes [life] more interesting," said Chu.
Along with her own designs, Chu sells some
vintage clothing, and shoes, and showcases the talents of other
Brooklyn designers: handbags by Tess Zimmer, faux leopard print
hats by two designing brothers in Fort Greene, Wayne and Marcus
Malchijah, and fresh-water pearl earrings by Adel Chefridi.
Along with the homemade natural soaps,
handrolled beeswax candles, and embroidered silk pillow shams,
Chu also has some whimsical items: straw hats; tiny, hand-painted,
embroidered cell phone carriers, that sell for between $20 and
$25; and a line of Herbal Alchemy Apothecary soaps and hand lotions.
Chu said she was excited about Sunday’s
fashion show, which will be a highlight of the open house that
the stores between Third Street and Garfield Place will be producing,
complete with music, readings and lots of espresso.
"It’s become quite trendy," said
Chu, looking pleased as she looked out toward Fifth Avenue. "I
see something very interesting happening here."
The "Spring-out on Fifth"
open house takes place Sunday, April 29 beginning at noon. The
seven stores participating in the day of art, fashion, music,
poetry and drink include Albert and Piccolo (276 Fifth Ave.),
Brooklyn Sugar (322 Fifth Ave.), Kimera (274 Fifth Ave.), Moda
Vecchia (294 Fifth Ave.), Somethin’ Else (294 Fifth Ave.), Tangerine
(313 Fifth Ave.) and Two Spoiled Cows and a Bull (285 Fifth Ave.).
The "Spring Fashion Preview"
fashion show featuring clothing from Brooklyn Sugar and Kimera
takes place at 6 pm at Loki Bar and Lounge (304 Fifth Ave.) Discount
coupons will be given to audience members.
For more information about Kimera, at
Fifth Avenue and Garfield Place, call (718) 965-1313.
