The menu at Walden, the new restaurant on Lorimer Street in Williamsburg, doesn’t look like much — deviled eggs, pickles, meatballs, braised meats.
But simplicity is perfection at this Minimalist eatery.
Owners Lisa Kim and Jamie Gray, working with former Diner chef Ben Winans, are sticking to the formula: unfussy food done well — with just enough of a surprise to keep it all interesting.
Take those deviled eggs, for example. The creamy egg yolk in the center is flecked with cilantro and topped with crispy onions. For just $3.50, they set the tone for a great meal to come.
Another standout appetizer is the chicken meatballs (three for $5) — ethereally light, and served with a bright pesto sauce.
A main course of braised pork shoulder ($18) came with apple slaw and toasted miche — and ate like a delectable new take on the classic BBQ pork sandwich. A house special — a rice cake served with mushrooms and squash — was so rich and earthy that it could satisfy meat eaters.
Now, maybe Henry David Thoreau would find this Walden too complex for his taste, but for this fan of simple food, Kim and Gray have found the perfect balance.
Walden [502 Lorimer St. at Powers Street in Williamsburg, (347) 227-7133].
Reach Editor Gersh Kuntzman at gkuntzman@cnglocal.com or by calling (718) 260-4504.
